Bruges is one of the largest preserved medieval-era cities in Western Europe, and was part of the Hanseatic League network of trading cities that stretched east to Tallinn. Bruges fell into economic neglect in the later medieval period, in part as it’s North Sea access via the River Zwin was lost in the early 1500s. The Southern Netherlands (which was mostly today’s Belgium) was ruled under the dead hand of the Spanish and then Austrian Habsburg Empire from the 1550s until seized by the French in 1794, and faced neglect and Napoleonic warfare until becoming part of the United Netherlands in 1815 and Belgium’s formation as an independent state in 1830. In contrast, the provinces of Holland to the northeast were able to gain independence in the late 1500s from the Spanish Habsburg Empire and started a period of independent prosperity. The Southern Netherlands also suffered from numerous wars, such as the Thirty Years War (1618-48), that devastated the region. Bruges avoided significant damage in the wars of the 20th century, although, less romantically in WWI, the canals that connect Bruges with the industrial seaport of Zeebrugge were used to refit German U-Boats that went out to wreak havoc on Allied shipping. History’s loss is today’s gain however, in terms of a preserved medieval city.
Bruges is also the setting for the 2006 Irish black comedy, In Bruges, which you should see before you go, if not to practice the varieties of Irish and Thames Valley swearing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wp50aAVNc-U The tourist office will provide an In Bruges itinerary where you can follow the heroes as they swear and sightsee their way around the city. Bruges gets A LOT of visitors into a fairly confined area, although if you work around weekends and the mid-morning to 4pm day tripper avalanche, and avoid the summer in general, that will help.
Bruges has a very well established itinerary that you can take as you wish – I did not go up the Belfort Tower (dating from around 1480), or spend much time at all in the busy main square, or get on a canal boat, but things that worked out well include the following.
Early Starts and Late Strolls. Bruges empties out and shows it’s earlier self. It’s not hard to get a quiet view of what is a fairly intact medieval city. Bruges had a population of over 200,000 in the 14th century, while the city center population today is about one tenth of that, so it has a somewhat deserted feel to it once the daytrippers have cleared off.
You can also stroll round the grounds of the Beguin House (Begijnhof), a still operating medieval womens’ community dating from 1245, which sits across the canal from the gathering site of Bruges’ famous swans, just north of the Minnewater, which was a city harbor in medieval times.
Groeninge Museum. As with most Flanders towns, you couldn’t swing a renaissance-era cat without hitting a Flemish painter. The Groeninge has a great collection of medieval religious and renaissance era Flemish art as well as more recent 18th-20th century Belgian art, and is a must for Hieronymous Bosch fans or those looking for Magritte.
Basilica of the Holy Blood. A very ornate chapel that claims to hold a phial of Jesus Christ’s blood, said to be brought back from Crusades in Palestine around 1150, or just obtained from the sacking of Constantinople in 1204. The phial is taken around town in a religious procession every mid-May. Faith is a beautiful thing, but from a reality check standpoint this ranks up there with the remains of St. James being located in Santiago de Compostela. You can walk in any time to see the upper chapel, whose original interior dates from the 15th century, with major renovation in the 19th. The lower chapel is less ornate and dates from the original 12th century construction.
Jerusalem Chapel. Off the beaten track, the 15th century Chapel, a copy of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem, has an ornate macabre sculpted marble altarpiece and the tomb of it’s founders, Anselm and Margaretha Adornes, in the center. Also used in the movie to highlight themes of death and damnation.
Day Bike Trip. Renting a bike and heading out along the canals or even into Holland is a good way to enjoy some peace while the town fills up. The route Bruges – Damme (7km) – Sluis (Holland 11km) – Knokke-Heist (10km) – Oostkerke (9km) – and home (10km) is a flat but scenic ride along excellent bike trails (with some roadway bike paths) that you can break up with some interesting towns. Sluis is a good-sized town for a break; Knokke-Heist is on the ocean although pretty functional; and Oostkerke is a neat medieval village.
Heading northeast for Damme (your first stop), the bike path takes you along canals that originate from around the 1200s, when Bruges and the surrounding towns were important trading and industrial areas. The canal to Damme gave Bruges sea access in the 1300s, with Damme acting as Bruges’ seaport. Damme was the location of a combined naval and land battle in 1213, where the English sailed into the town and sacked the 300-strong French fleet that was at anchor. The French army was able to return from besieging Ghent to drive the English off, but the seizure of ships and general looting was a disaster for the French.
From Damme, you can cycle over the Dutch border to the commercial center of Sluis, which has plenty of lunch options, a windmill and fortifications. The nearby 14th century church of Sent Anna ter Maiden is very tall.
From Sluis, you could either head back to Ghent or alternatively go north to the seaside town of Knokke-Heist. Knokke-Heist is actually quite drab and modern but has a bracing seafront. After that, head south to the now rather isolated town of Oostkerke, which has a large medieval church (destroyed in WWII and reconstructed) and a scenic medieval manor house out in the middle of the fields. From there you can go south to regain the Damme-Bruges canal road and head back.
Subterranean Beer Bars. Bruges has an excellent selection of beer bars as well as the nationally recognized De Halve Maan brewery, whose blonde (Brugse Zot) and tripel (Straffe Hendrik) beers are worth trying. Pubs to consider include:
Le Trappiste, 33 Kuipersstraat. Widest draft selection, although it’s Belgium so bottles are still a good way to go to try the national selection.
‘t Brugs Beertje, Kemelstraat 5. A bit more local with a large bottle selection, and serves meals as well.
Huisbrouwerij De Halve Maan, Walplein 26. You can tour or just beer. Food served also.
‘t Poatersgat, Vlamingstraat 82. Another subterranean medieval beer joint.
Logistics
I stayed at the Hotel Lucca, Naaldenstraat 30, which had large, comfortable, traditional rooms and was close to the center.
Food-wise, the further away from the main square is as always a good idea. The Sint-Anna area in the northeast of town has a couple of good choices that are a bit more local, including Lion Belge (Langestraat 123) and ‘t Gezelleke (Carmersstraat 15). Belgian cooking is filling and flavorful, and best accompanied by a local beer.
The railway station is located about a 30-minute walk south of the main square, so be ready to drag your rollaboard across cobblestones and through the crowds, or just get a rucksack. While it is an idea to base in say Ghent and just day trip it the 30-minute rail journey into Bruges, since both Ghent and Bruges railway stations are both about 30 minutes south of their respective centers, it does add an hour to what is a short rail trip; frankly it’s better to just stay overnight in both places.
Bike rental. I rented from Bruges Bike Rental, Niklaas Desparsstraat 17, which had a decent range of bikes. The tourist office will provide recommendations. The standard bikes are more the urban upright seated configuration, although you can request road bikes. Always take a trip round the block to make sure the gears work etc as most of the renting is intended for short trips around town.
