Cadiz could only happen in Spain, where putting a fortified naval base in the teeth of the Atlantic using renaissance-era technology seemed achievable and useful.

Which it was, at least until 1587 when the British state-sponsored pirate Francis Drake raided the harbor and sank or damaged over 30 ships. Since that time, we are left with a compact city that is an excellent base to visit the region or just spend a few days in.

Reached in a less than 2-hour train ride from Seville via Jerez, Cadiz is located at the end of a rather unremarkable peninsular where you can observe industrial shipyards, which only encourages you to pretend that the city gates have been locked against Napoleon (who laid siege in the Peninsular War) and that there is nothing to do other than wander the narrow streets until you can legitimately have a glass of wine. There are however a series of public beaches in the west of the old town or more extensively to the south along the peninsular.

The city can be easily navigated via its by squares and parks.

The seaward side facing the open Atlantic has a selection of fortresses offering overlapping arcs of cannon fire. The inner fort, Santa Catalina, is open regularly, but the outer fort, San Sebastian, is accessed by a causeway that is closed in higher sea states, which it was when I visited.

Lively nightlife occurs in most Spanish cities.  We are in Andalusia, so bullfight memorabilia is fully available if your date isn’t going so well. Jerez is just up the road, although it doesn’t make the sherry taste any better.

The palm trees and the large balcony windows ready to open for summer give a tropical feel to counter the winds coming in from the Atlantic.

The Museo de Cadiz has a wide selection, from locally discovered Phoenician and Roman artefacts, to modern art. If you like your 17th century Spanish art you should head for the comprehensive Zurbaran exhibit depicting various facets of religious realization. Art appreciation nugget that I have superficially absorbed: Zurbaran, like Caravaggio, made extensive use of chiarascuro, the forceful use of contrasted light and dark. Pretty neat.

Cadiz is considered to be one of the oldest continuously-inhabited European cities, starting with the Phoenicians around 1,100 BC. It’s almost always been called something that sounds like Cadiz, i.e.:

Phoenicians – Gadir

Romans – Gades

Moors – Qadis

The Roman theater is worth a visit – it is now mostly below street level so check out the underground museum and emerge into the auditorium.

The medieval-era narrow lanes open out into beautiful marble-fitted squares with orange trees. Take one.

Cadiz was one of the main ports of Spain’s age of exploration, including some of Columbus’ voyages and as the base of the treasure fleet bring precious metals back from the Americas. The Admiral’s house is a fine example of what looting the Americas will get you, at least on earth.

Catholic shrines and motifs are set around the buildings.

The palm trees and moorish architecture remind you that you’re in Andalusia.

Logistics.

Rail and bus stations are close to each other just east of the old town, the rail station at Plaza de Sevilla and the bus station further south at Avenida de Astilleros 302. There are good rail frequencies to Sevilla. City tourist offices in Spain usually keep a bus and train schedule handy, Cadiz’ turismo is located at Avenida Cuatro de Diciembre de 1977, 32D.

I stayed at the Spanish Galleon Lodge at Calle Sopranis, 8, which is a clean and simple hotel with a great location in the east of old town and a short walk to the rail and bus.

Food and beverage recommendations include:

El Faro de Cadiz, located in the west of town at Calle San Félix, 15. Great seafood restaurant, and their Cadiz style seafood stew with rice is excellent.

The open air market at Plaza de la Libertad has plenty of food options and a craft beer stand.

Casa Manteca, Calle Corralón de los Carros, 66. Bullfighty bar and taperia.

Libertad Treze Tapería, Calle Libertad, 13 – east side of Plaza de la Libertad.

Bar Bodeguita El Adobo, Calle Rosario, 4

Woodstock Bar Sagasta, Calle Sagasta just southwest of Calle Canovas del Castillo. Great Spanish craft beer selection.