The Andean city of Cusco is one of the best-preserved Spanish colonial cities in Latin America, set in a mountain valley located at about 10,000 feet altitude. The city was originally developed as the Inca imperial capital by the Emperor Pachacutec in the 1430s, with palaces and temples connected by a road grid that stands to this day. Cusco is the main access city for the Macchu Picchu archaeological site, about 90 kilometers northwest via the Sacred Valley, or 4 hours away by a combination of bus and rail. The central Plaza de Armas is a natural meeting area, originally the Inca central plaza and now a more typical Spanish colonial square surrounded by churches and colonnaded buildings.

Cusco sits within a large valley that you get to observe on approach from the southeast if flying in.

Cusco has grown well past its imperial and colonial city, although the old city is quite concentrated and walkable.

Cusco was the capital of the Inca Empire at its height, which ended with the arrival of Spanish invaders in 1533. The speed and violence of the overthrow was notable, enabled by an internal Inca dynastic power struggle that the Spanish were able to exploit. Cusco’s architecture reflects the destruction of the Inca power structure, culture and religion by the common build-over of Spanish buildings, on the often still-visible foundations of Inca palaces and temples.

Inca stone block construction has precise and razor-thin stone joins along the often irregular shape of the stones. Look out for the Twelve-Angled Stone lodged in the foundation wall of the Archbishop’s Palace, along Calle Hatunrumiyoc, one of the original Inca streets.

The Qorikancha Temple/Santo Domingo Convent (https://www.museoqorikancha.pe) is worth a visit not so much for the predictable renaissance-era Spanish monastic layout, but for the Inca temple structures that remain from the previous Qorikancha temple complex, constructed under Pachacutec around 1438. Again, the precision of the stonework, often with angled doorways to provide seismic resilience, is remarkable. There is an archaeology museum accessed via Avendia del Sol, which you should look for but be prepared for it to be closed if Covid restrictions are in force.

Cusco Cathedral. Overlooking Plaza de Armas and built over the Incan Viracocha Palace in 1559-1654, the cathedral has a range of renaissance and baroque architectural styles over its 95 years of construction, delayed by the 1650 earthquake.

You enter the cathedral through the Church of Triumph, located to the right side. This was the first church built in Cusco by the Spanish in 1538, which celebrated the final defeat of the Incas in 1536. Much of the stonework used to build the cathedral came from the Sacsayhuaman Fortress overlooking the city, where you’ll see similar dark gray andesite rock in the columns.

The cathedral contains a large collection of colonial art of the “Cusco School,” including one painting showing the city during the major 1650 earthquake. There are a lot of gold covered artefacts, some of which was lifted from Inca temples, such as the nearby Qorikancha.

Central Cusco has plenty of walkable sites, including the other major religious building on the Plaza de Armas, the Church of the Company of Jesus, built in the 1570s.

San Pedro Central Market is worth a look for street food, fruit juice and local produce, such as coffee, herbs and cocoa blocks.

The market area, opposite the San Pedro railway station entrance to its east, is a gathering space for Cusquenans for their time off.

San Blas Neighborhood. This area is a well-preserved traditional neighborhood, located up the hillside just northeast of the center, reached from the main square via the pretty Plazoleta Nazarenas. Centered around the Plaza San Blas with it’s fountains and mid-16th century church with accompanying ornate one-piece cedarwood pulpit, the lanes are mostly quiet and allow a few hours of wandering – it’s also on the way up to the Sacsayhuaman Fortress if you want a longer walk.

Museums. There are a range of comprehensive museums that explain the Inca and colonial past. The Regional Historical Museum of Cusco (corner of Casa Garcilaso and San Bernardo) has Incan and colonial artefacts, and don’t miss the Museum of Precolombian Art (Nazarenas 23). Check to see whether the Macchu Picchu Museum (Santa Catalina Ancha 320) – currently closed under Covid – is open for some background on the site. Finally, the Museum of Contemporary Art (Plaza Regocijo), is worth a quick look.

Cusco Day Trips. Additional to longer trips to Macchu Picchu (see trip report here https://www.aerotrekka.com/slow-train-once-lost-inca-city/), the Valle Sagrado, Choquequirao, and various hiking and outdoor attractions, there are a range of day trip opportunities around Cusco. Other than for the nearby Sacsayhuaman Fortress, a simple way to access them is to get a taxi out, and walk back along the 28G road.

Sacsayhuaman Fortress. Located a short but steep walk from Plaza de Aramas, Sacsayhuaman is one of the largest fortifications in Latin America, as the principal fort guarding the imperial capital city, located on high ground to the north.

The fortress, on a slope descending to the east, was constructed with a cliff on it’s southwest side and otherwise with two layers of zig-zag walls designed to ensure that anyone attacking faced a defense from two directions.

The central citadel was later demolished by the Spanish although the assault and conquest of the fortress was well-documented and detailed how the Incan commander threw himself from the main tower rather than surrender.

Tambomachay Springs Site and Puka Pukara Fortress. Located about 7 km north of the city along the 28G Road, these Inca sites are other outposts to Cusco. Tambomachay consists of a series of terraced irrigation structures supplying spring water, although it’s unclear what other roles it had, such as ceremonial or military.

The Puka Pukara Fortress, located just east of Tambomachay, overlooks the approaches to Cusco from the southeast. Believed to be built in the reign of Pachacutec around the mid-1400s, and located on higher ground about 5 km north of Sacsayhuaman, it may have been a complementary outpost to the main fortress.

Qenco Archaeological Complex. Located about a mile east of Sacsayhuaman, this is believed to be a temple complex built around rock formations, where sacrifices and mummifications occurred.

Logistics. Cusco is Peru’s 7th most populous city with almost 500,000 inhabitants and is an important center for the Andean southeast. There are plenty of hotel and catering options geared towards the tourism trade and ranging from backpacker to more well-heeled visitor needs. You are at altitude so take the first day easy; many of the hotels offer treatments for altitude sickness such as coca tea, although at a minimum you should stay hydrated and get a good first night’s sleep.

You’ll need to purchase a Cusco Tourist Ticket (Boleto Turistico del Cusco) from the local government office (Av. del Sol 103) in order to access many of the local attractions, including Sacsayhuama and the surrounding Inca sites, and the Regional Historical Museum. In 2021, there was only one purchase option, which included sites in the Valle de Sagrado, such as the Ollantaymbo Inca city and temple.

I stayed first at the Antigua Casona San Blas (Carmen Bajo 243), which was a great small hotel with a large covered courtyard to hang out in; and the Terra Andina Hotel (Union 184) which was a larger more formal hotel in a converted Spanish mansion.

There are plenty of good restaurants in town, and many emphasize traditional Andean recipes. A few good restaurants included Pachapapa (Carmen Bajo 120) that had good Pisco-based drinks and Andean recipes in an outdoor courtyard; El Mordisco (Calle San Juan de Dios 298) and La Chomba (Calle Garcilaso 290), both serving good staples for mostly local customers.

Jacob’s Brewery and Bar (Carmen Bajo 235) has great local craft beers and a well-delivered vegan menu. There are plenty of bars and cafes around Plaza de Armas and off the streets leading in, including Hanz Craft Beer and Jack’s Cafe (Choqechaka 509).