Mount Olympus: I Can’t Go On, I’ll Go On

Mount Olympus is Greece’s highest mountain and the home of multiple ancient Gods, notably Zeus, who is claimed to be responsible for the periodic thunderclouds that form over it. You will meet people up there who still cover their bets as to who to follow. The main trailhead, east of the high ground, is at Enipeas Waterfall https://goo.gl/maps/Sc8AWCYejop. From there, you can hike to Skala, a subsidiary peak at 2,866m, and if you don’t mind some exposure (i.e. stunning downward views and a bit of a drop at some points), you can scramble to the highest point, Mytikas (2,918m). There are two refuges that offer bunk accommodation, meals and beverages, so you can travel fairly light. Most hikers will aim to do this in the summer, so be ready to deal with high sun exposure and carry plenty of water.

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Source: Google Maps, annotated.

The usual base town is Litochoro, which is a pleasant town with a busy main street that is at the base of a large gorge. You can start at the gorge entrance just west of town https://goo.gl/maps/fHRkvg1hggH2 and hike the 11 km to the trailhead at Enipeas Waterfall, although most people just get transport there.

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Looking East to Skala and Mytikas

This handy mapboard graphic (with the mountain ridge oriented roughly northeasterly) shows the trail from Enipeas Waterfall to Spilios Agapitos Refuge (A – lower center), then up to Skala/Mytikas (top center), and then back to Kakkalos Refuge (C – upper right).

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A typical itinerary is:

Day 1: Enipeas Waterfall – Spilios Agapitos Refuge

This breaks you in gently with a mostly shaded 5 km steady uphill trail. Spilios Agapitos is a large refuge with bunkhouse accommodation, showers and a restaurant: https://goo.gl/maps/RWatCa1j2yn You just need a sleeping bag liner for the bunkhouse. Book ahead http://mountolympus.gr/en/index.php#.W9ODnS-ZNsY – they also have smaller bunkrooms if you are in a group. Be prepared to stand aside for the pack mules on their supply runs to and from the refuge.

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Day 1 Trail to Spilios Agapitos Refuge

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Spilios Agapitos Refuge

You get great early evening views east down the valley from the refuge as the clouds congregate over Mt. Olympus – it is not always visible at a distance, which is why it’s important to get in close.

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View East Towards Aegean, Spilios Agapitos Refuge

Day 2: Spilios Agapitos – Mytikas Summit – Christos Kakkalos Refuge

This is a long day, as you’ll head up to the summit(s) and then turn back around and trek down to Christos Kakkalos Refuge, which involves returning part of the way you came until a turnoff that takes you north to Kakkalos. There isn’t any water on trail so take enough for the day. Note that walkers have a shorter deal just going to Skala https://goo.gl/maps/Wb5RqNohSSS2, while those willing to scramble to Mytikas will have an easily two hour round trip depending on levels of confidence and speed.  It is reportedly quite safe to drop any heavy items in the stone rotunda at Skala. The terrain is treeless and rocky so sunblock, sunglasses and cover up.

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Exposed Uphill Towards Skala

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Looking Back from Skala

Taking a break on Skala (2,866m), you get to ponder the highest peak, Mytikas (2,918m), which is a quite exposed scramble consisting of a series of mini-descents and ascents, where you will keep your left shoulder to the hillside most of the way out.

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Mytikas Peak from Skala with Muses Plateau and Aegean Sea in the Background

This is how the scramble to Mytikas starts, with a downhill descent. While the footholds are mostly secure, the downward view is extensive and not for people who hate the idea of exposure, even though they may able to deal with the reality, one step at a time.

You will have to deal with a series of down and up scrambles, and finally up as Mytikas is ultimately higher than Skala. Then the same trail on the way back.

For the most part while you have a good view down, there is a well marked path (red and yellow paint) to keep you on track. At a couple of points you have to work your way round large rock outcrops and take your time.

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The view from Mytikas, not surprisingly, is quite worth it, with the Aegean not far off as the crow flies.

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Muses Plateau and Aegean from Mytikas Peak

Having summited Mytikas and returned to Skala, it’s now time to go back down the way you came, cutting left part way along the trail to head north up to Kakkalos Refuge and Muses Plateau. You will keep the Skala-Mytikas Ridgeline to your left.

Day 3: Kakkalos Refuge and back to the Start

The Kakkalos Refuge https://goo.gl/maps/Pj85FH5be7F2 is a lot cosier than the larger Spilios Agapitos Refuge, and is located on the Muses Plateau, which is also accessible to the Prophet Ilias (Elijah) peak, where there is a small chapel. The Refuge serves home cooked meals and a range of beverages, and has a single common bunk area and a separate washroom. As with the other refuge, take a sleeping bag liner and book ahead http://www.olympus-climbing.gr/index.php?page=refuges&id=4.

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You’ll probably arrive late afternoon after the peak so it’s a great place to have a quiet evening and take a stroll up to the Prophet Elias chapel the following morning.

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Muses Plateau and Kakkalos Refuge

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Kakkalos Refuge and local Hikers

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Muses Plateau and Prophet Elias

It’s an easy hike back down to Spilios Agapitos Refuge, or just through to the start point at Enipeas Waterfall.

Logistics

If you stay in Litochoro, the following are recommended:

To Palio B&B http://www.paliolitohoro.gr Traditional northern Greek guesthouse at the top of town, great breakfast.

Meze Meze https://goo.gl/maps/KYaNFuapd5B2 As the name implies, very good.

Erato Wine Restaurant https://goo.gl/maps/wxWum6afzet

 

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