One Night in Jeddah

Saudi Arabia. Tough to visit as the visa categories include: Diplomatic, Government, Business, Accompanying someone on Diplomacy, Government or Business; Hajj Pilgrimage and Umrah Pilgrimage (similar to Hajj but at a different time). Note the absence of a coming to take a look and dawdle around visa. There are plans to introduce a tourist visa so watch this space. While tourism is restricted, there is still a significant expat community, especially from West and South East Asia.

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Jeddah is a good place to start, as it has been Saudi Arabia’s commercial center as a Red Sea port since medieval times and there are a few things to see before heading on. It also has the world’s highest fountain, that you can view from the seafront.

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Jeddah is now mostly sprawley functional low-rise buildings; until Saudi Arabia developed it’s oil industry post WW2 it was hard to maintain a large population (and the attendant sea water desalinization plants) so the growth is quite recent. However, the al-Balad district downtown still shows a slice of pre-growth Jeddah and is a good place to wander around.

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The souk is a good place to detour, not so much for nasty Chinese plastic goods, but the dates are going to be fresh from the farm and if you are missing a keffiyeh or an abaya in your wardrobe this is the place to haggle for one. Head for Suq al-Alawi and look from there.

Al-Balad is a live neighborhood with some preserved historical buildings such as the Matbouli and Nassif Houses, and others that merge traditional features with modern additions.

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Foodwise the traditional Saudi restaurants offer varieties of roasted meat and rice although barbecued fish is another local specialty. Lebanese and Indian restaurants are plentiful and another good option.

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Visits to the supermarket will show a poor (non-alcoholic) beer selection but plenty of fruit juice varieties.

Rumor has it that the re-sealable swing tops on the glass fruit juice bottles allow introduction of yeast and sugar to make it a more interesting beverage. When the company switched to non-resealable crown tops, sales plummeted, allegedly.

Logistics. Jeddah Airport is rather outdated at present and there is limited public transit, although the new Terminal 1 is planned to have a light rail connection downtown. Taxis at the airport will try and rip you off – a trip into the central area of Jeddah should run about 50 Saudi Riyals in a taxi (~US$15) but they will start the bidding at 200. Depending on which if the two existing and separated (North and South) terminals you arrive at, Uber may have a long wait time. You should set up the Careem app, which is a regional version of Uber that works quite well. Uber and Careem are otherwise efficient to get around and the taxis are better value around town.

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Women visiting Saudi Arabia should acquire an abaya before getting off the plane to cover up, although visitors don’t appear to need a headscarf (while the locals do).

Restaurants and coffee shops are divided into male and family sections – if you are in mixed company you can use the family section.

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